(photos: © Constança Cabral)
Category: sewing
Pijamas de Verão :: Summer Pyjamas
WIPs
Missão do Momento :: My Present Mission
Now just take a look at these shorts I’m making (wrong side in the first picture, right side in the second one). They look much better, don’t they? They take much longer but turn out much more pleasing and strong. I sewed them like this after reading Rae’s post on super seams. This post on Sew, Mama, Sew is also quite informative. I vow not to pink or zigzag my seams ever again!
These pj trousers have also been sewed with super seams: I did French seams on the legs and folded and stitched down all the remaining seams. By the way, the pattern I used was the Bedtime Story Pajamas by Oliver + S (size 3 with huge hems).
I’ll keep you posted on my progress, OK?
Portugal em Hexágonos :: Portugal in Hexagons
Kaftan
1. The motivation
We’re going to spend some time in Portugal soon and I’ve realised that my summer wardrobe is extremely limited and plain. Truth is, most of my pre-pregnancy clothes no longer fit me, my budget doesn’t allow for big shopping sprees, the fact that I’m living in the southern hemisphere where the seasons are opposite to those in Europe doesn’t help and I’m not a fan of buying clothes online (I dislike the whole returns issue). I guess the solution is clear: I must start making my own clothes.
I’ve been buying lots of cute patterns (some old, some new) but I admit I feel quite intimidated by my lack of knowledge when it comes to fitting and making alterations. That’s right: if you want to make half decent clothes, you must know how to adapt the pattern to your body. There are numerous tutorials online and in books but I need someone in the flesh to hold my hand through the process. Until that day comes I’m going to keep practicing with children’s clothes and a few super simple patterns for myself.
2. The inspiration
I figured that a kaftan would make a great practice piece. Four years ago I bought a navy kaftan in Marrakesh to wear as a beach cover-up. I’ve worn it quite a few times but because it’s not 100% cotton it’s too hot and it’s beginning to pile from being washed often. But it’s such a simple pattern that I decided to use it as inspiration to sew my very own kaftan.
3. The fabric
Since this kaftan is an experiment I thought I shouldn’t use anything too precious. In England I use to go to a fabric shop that had a good remnant bin — that was precisely where I found this Indian block printed gauze. It’s huge (later I discovered a seam in the middle… it’s actually made of two pieces of cloth sewn together) but it had a big tear in the centre. It’s a very open weave (which means that the fabric is very light and sheer) and I love the colours and patterns.
4. The execution
A kaftan is just a big rectangle with a hole in the middle for your head. I wish I could have made it maxi length but that tear meant that I had to go for a just-over-the-knee look. I hemmed all four sides, bound the neckline with a strip of the same fabric cut on the bias (I got a bit carried away with that neckline… but since it’s for the beach it’s no big deal) and stitched up the sides leaving a gap at the top for the arms and a smaller gap at the bottom. Then I improvised a sort of waistband by making an interfaced band and two strips of fabric that are then tied in the back.
5. Final notes
You know what? I loved making this. It may not be the most flattering shape ever (I mean, the mannequin looks as if she’s got huge hips and she’s a much slimmer girl than I) but it felt great to improvise and make it up as I went along and generally just trust my gut. It was truly liberating! Sometimes it’s nice to embark on a project with no instructions and just a general idea of what one hopes to accomplish. Again I say: long live the sewing machine!
(photos: © Constança Cabral)
Quilts in "Little Women"
Acrescentar Margens de Costura :: Adding Seam Allowances
Macaquinhos para Gémeas :: Playsuits for Twins
1. The design
Playsuit/romper suit… I’m not sure what to call it. It’s one of my favourite styles for babies as it’s so cute, classic and comfortable. I found it in Ottobre 3/2011 and chose not to include the pockets.
2. The pattern
I admit I panicked when I opened the pattern sheet and was confronted with so many lines. And no seam allowances! As it turns out, the lines aren’t so confusing after all and I found a quick and easy way to add seam allowances (I’ll write a post about it soon).
3. The instructions
European (i.e. short and aimed at people who were raised under a sewing machine). If you want to know what I mean, check out my views on European versus American instructions in the last paragraph of this post.
4. Os tecidos
Liberty. Os tecidos Liberty são objecto de um verdadeiro culto mundial e percebo porquê. Os padrões são apelativos e intemporais e, principalmente, a qualidade é absolutamente fantástica. São finos e suaves mas simultaneamente fortes, quase parecem seda. E são leves e frescos. O Verão em Portugal costuma ser abrasador e a roupa das crianças deve ser o mais fresca possível (o que nem sempre acontece… no ano passado comprei uma série de fatinhos muito giros para o Rodrigo, mas muitos deles eram confeccionados com tecidos demasiado grossos. O mesmo aconteceu com os pijamas. Por isso o meu pedido às muitas lojas e fábricas que fazem roupa para criança em Portugal: por favor, escolham tecidos muito, muito leves para o Verão!).
4. The fabrics
Liberty. Liberty fabrics are loved by people all around the world and I can understand why. The prints are appealing and timeless and the quality is absolutely fantastic. They’re fine and soft but strong at the same time, they almost feel like silk. And they’re light and cool. Summer in Portugal can be scorching and children’s clothes should be as lightweight as possible (unfortunately this isn’t always the case… last year I bought a number of adorable outfits for Rodrigo but even though they were very cute, the fabrics were usually too thick).
5. Notais finais
Em vez de grega, resolvi aplicar um cordão forrado num tecido contrastante. Tinha-me sobrado bastante tecido aos quadradinhos num tom morango muito giro (entre o encarnado e o cor-de-rosa) do debrum deste quilt, e que por sorte combinava lindamente com os dois tecidos Liberty. Forrar e aplicar o cordão foi uma estreia para mim e tive de consultar os livros de costura que tenho cá em casa. Acabei por ter de fazer as alças nesse mesmo tecido aos quadrados, porque não tinha quantidade suficiente dos tecidos Liberty para cortar em viés duas tiras tão compridas.
Não vou mentir: foi uma dor de cabeça fazer estes fatinhos (especialmente porque as instruções eram parcas e porque eram dois!) mas, para me motivar, fartei-me de pensar nas gémeas a quem se destinavam e estou bastante contente com o resultado. Espero sinceramente que os pais delas gostem!
5. Final notes
Instead of ric-rac I decided to use piping in a contrasting print. I still had quite a lot of gingham fabric in the loveliest strawberry colour left over from the binding of this quilt, which was fortunate because it goes really well with both Liberty fabrics. It was my first attempt at making and inserting piping and I had to look for help in the various sewing books I own. I ended up using the gingham for the ties as well because I didn’t have enough Liberty yardage to cut two long bias strips.
I’m not going to lie: making these playsuits was a pain (especially because the instructions weren’t detailed enough for me and everything had to be made twice!). In order to motivate myself, I fept thinking of the lovely little girls I was making them for and now that it’s finished, I’m quite pleased with the result. I really hope their parents will like the outfits!
(photos: © Constança Cabral)






























































